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He gave no chapter or verse, but his footnote gives the impression that it was something he recently read, whether in French or in English perhaps we shall one day find out.
392-3) "The first substantial piece of writing on ice cream was an anonymous 84-page manuscript entitled L'Art de faire des Glaces which, through watermarks in the paper, has been dated "circa 1700." It is a "how to" work of some sophistication, giving detailed instructions for the preparation of such delights as apricot, voilet, rose, chocolate, and a caramel ice creams and water ices.
A number of British cookbooks of the eighteenth century contain ice cream formulas. Hannah Glasse's The Art of Cookery Made Easy (1747)--considered by scholars to be the first major cookbook written by a woman in what was until then an almost exclusively male domain.
Where did they get the ice before we had refrigerators? The chillier the cream, the more solid the product. Before modern refrigeration mostly wealthy people had access to ice (and by association, iced cream) in the summer. It was not until the late 19th century "ice cream" was consumed by Americans across all socio-economic levels.
In sum: the first "iced creams" were so named because the appelation described the process. According to the Oxford English Dictionary the first print occurrence of the word "iced cream" as in 1688. That corresponds approximately with the time when "modern" ice creams were first manufactured. European introduction & evolution "Ice cream is reputed to have been made in China as long ago as 3000 BC, but it did not arrive in Europe (via Italy) until the thirteenth century, and Britain had to wait until the late seventeenth century to enjoy it (hitherto, iced desserts had been only of the sorbet variety)...
Emy, who not only gives formulas for "food fit for the gods," but offers theological and philosophical explanations for such phenomena as the freezing of water.